June 18, 2016

TRENCH RUNNER Nathan Hutchison's Miniatures Head to Toe: Perry Miniature's Agincourt Sets

Nathan Hutchison checks in with a Head to Toe look at Perry Miniature's Agincourt French Infantry 1415-­1429 28mm and Agincourt Foot Knights 1415­-1429. 

...In this review, I will provide varied information about the kit, and outline my step-by-step approach to assembling, priming, and painting these miniatures.

Sprue contents and layout: 
• Included in each box is a reference sheet displaying various heraldries. 
• The sprues themselves are cast in hard plastic. 
• The models, and their components are durable, have minor imperfections, and contain a lot of impressive details for a 28mm plastic.For example the knights facial lines and unique expressions. even under the mask you can differentiate their facial structure. folds in the infantry cloth and leather, dents in the wooden shields.) 
• The knights have 2 different sets of foot knights, 6 individually designed in each set. There each set contains the applicable weapon selection and an optional facemask for the helmet.  
• The infantry has 3 identical sets with 12 individually sculpted infantry in each. Along with a unit of 6 knights that can be modeled as French men at arms, or Parisian militia.  
• Both kits contain an identical, green, base sprue. Therefore, these models can be applied to games that utilize multiple models on the same base. 

Sprue components: 
• A lot of variety 
• Plenty of different poses and weapon variations. 
• The faces are varied and distinct. 
• Very nice for a tabletop troop. 
• But, with some conversion work and an adequate paint job, some of these models can be used for display pieces. A very nice kit. 
PRM-AO60 Agincourt Foot Knights 1415-1429 
PRM-AO50 Agincourt French Infantry 1415-1429 
Cast Quality: 
• Solid plastic. Not brittle. Mold lines and plastic flash are minimal. Easy to clean up. 
 Sculpt Quality: 
• Well detailed, proportionate. The facial expression (and variety) is particularly impressive. 
• The Perry Brothers were able to create some dramatic expression in a helmet bound 28mm. that is the real charm in these models, in my opinion. 
•Picture #4
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• The clipping joint for the heads and bodies can be difficult to access with thicker clippers. 
 o Can create difficulties with continuity of the neck area connecting the head and the body because you have to trim the excess plastic, which creates uneven areas to glue together.  
 • The three part weapon assembly options can be difficult. The most significant drawback thus far in the kit. 
Aligning the reloading crossbowman was very difficult. The arms did not align properly with the bow and the foot. The body I used is the same body in the pamphlet example. 

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o The arm/weapons, to body alignment can be difficult.
o I think this is just a natural drawback to applying a multi­option model you need a one size fits all assembly type, and it’s not always going to look proper out of the box. So there will likely be some additional putty work to be done on the arm to body joints, to create continuity, and fill gaps. 
♣ Don’t let that discourage you, it’s still great for the tabletop with the errors in assembly. They are minor.  

Here you can see some gaps at the shoulder connecting point. I am neglecting to putty these, as I typically do with table-top models.

• Wash the mini of hand grease and release agent. 
• Mount for priming. 
o I used The Army Painter black matte primer. 
• Typically, I prime my miniatures with gray primer. I base coat with the colors mid-tone. The neutral gray makes it easier to apply a varied palette. But, since this will be a quick, tabletop quality, I will basecoat in the shadow color. Black is easier to work with, in that case. 
• After I wait a few hours for the primer to cure, I hit any spot I missed with Reaper brush on black primer. Give it some more time, and get to work.

• I chose to paint one of the Agincourt Knights because you can find that model in both kits, and he’s really cool!
• The scheme I decided on is the white cross, on the blue field. The cross of St. Dennis. 
• When I paint, I uses a wet-palette. It can keep the paint moist for weeks, sometimes. This increases workability, and saves plenty of paint. 
o For the coat: VMC Dark Prussian Blue, Prussian Blue, and White
o For the Flesh: Reaper Master Series Chestnut Brown, Rosy Skin Shadow, Rosy Skin
o For the Metal: Army Painter Gun Metal, washes of Chestnut Brown, Dark Prussian Blue, and the two combined.

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• I use a light source style called “Zenithal” which is a 12 o’clock light source. So the highlights will be hitting the most elevated areas of the model, from the very top. 
• First is the cloak: I apply multiple thin layers to achieve smooth coats. Starting with the darkest layer, and slowly working up to the brightest highlight.
o I lay my gray cross base-coat the same time I lay my blue one, and work the sequence of highlights in the same order.
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• Next, the flesh/mustache. Lightly work up from the Chestnut Brown, to the Rosy Skin. The mustache is Chestnut Brown mixed with Rosy Skin, and a bit of Dark Prussian Blue to create a dirty orange. Add some white, and you’ve got a highlight. 

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• Last is the metallic. I lay a thin coat of Gun Metal, then apply many washes of a thin mix of the Chestnut Brown and Dark Prussian Blue (Colors already used on the model! Doing this will help bring some coherence and consistency to the model.)
o You don’t always have to use pure black for metallic. 
• Finally, let’s add some blood! I like my fighters dirty. No showboating that nice armor here, this guy is in the thick of it. To add the blood, I mix up some Vallejo Glaze Medium, with some VMC Red. 
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Conclusion: These are great kits. The models are durable, beautifully sculpted, varied, and a joy to paint. There are some minor assembly pains, but nothing worth turning you off the purchase. A nice addition for the wargamer and modeler. 
Thank you!
Nathan Hutchison 

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