October 19, 2017

MTSC TUTORIAL: '7 Days to Whippet' Painting & Weathering a Whippet with Martin "Red" Kováč and Featuring Wilder Weathering Products

7 Days to Whippet
>>throughout this article click images to enlarge

Hello, everyone!

This is Martin "Red" Kováč and I’d like to show you how to paint and weather this post-WW1 Irish Whippet. Now you might be thinking well, that’s very nice of you Martin, but I don’t plan on building a post-WW1 Irish Whippet! I hear you, but don’t worry, all of the techniques that I’m about to show are somewhat universal and can be applied to any armor subject, although there might be some specific aspect that applies to British WW1 tanks, but I’ll point this out when the time’s right.

Also, don’t consider this article as canon that needs to be carved in stone. There are dozens of different approaches that can be taken in order to finish an armor model.

This will be a seven part article with a new part added each of the next seven days...So without beating around the bush, let’s get started on...7 Days to Whippet.

Day 1 - Base coat
After covering the model with a fine even layer of primer I sprayed a dark gray color into the most recessed areas. This isn’t an attempt at the Black and White technique, which is much much more involved. This step simply guarantees that any hard-to-reach areas will remain shadowed without the light gray primer showing through.

The model was then airbrushed with Tamiya XF-49 Khaki that was again applied in a fine layer, resulting in some of the shadowed areas showing through.

Read Complete Chapter 1
Day 2 - Oils
In this chapter, we’ll add some definition to the surface details while distinguishing some of the plates from each other as well. We will be using oil paints for all of these steps and because we are working on a glossy surface, they will take some time to completely dry, so it’s a good idea to let each of these steps dry for about a day or more.

It’s time to oil up! We’ll start with washes. As there are many different surface details, I mixed a black, dark and lighter brown wash.

Here we can see the model with all details outlined with washes. The lightest brown wash was applied over the white and red identification strips as they are the brightest areas on this model. The dark brown wash was added around all of the rivets and other details on the rest of the tank. Black wash was used to add deep shadow to panel lines.

Read Complete Chapter 2 →
Day 3 - Chipping
Hello and welcome back at this virtual workbench! I’m gonna indulge myself a lot in this chapter as chipping is my favorite painting technique. I think you’ll be able to tell by yourselves once you see the entire model chipped!

The truth is I like to add large amounts of fine chips for several reasons. First, I enjoy it. It’s a slow-paced precise technique that requires patience and skill. The more you do it, the better you get and you’ll benefit from that extra precision in your hands in other parts of modeling as well. Second, it adds a lot of texture to the model‘s surface. And last, a lot of it gets toned down with weathering, so in the end, it will all look just alright (that last bit depends on each person’s perspective of course).

So let’s get started!

I always start with a lighter version of the base coat. In this case, I picked the same color I used before for highlighting the rivet detail and thinned it down with tap water
Most of the time I begin the process by highlighting the edges. Note that I’m using the side of the brush, sliding it along the edge.

Day 4 - Details
Hello everyone, today Martin gives us an exclusive demonstration on how to work with the brand new AquaLine range of acrylic weathering effects from Wilder and tomorrow we'll see how to create authentic dust and mud effects using paints from great new line. 

So in this chapter, we’re gonna prepare the model for weathering. In other words, we’ll take care of some details that need to be painted before adding dust and earth tones to the surface. Incinerated White from Lifecolor contains a small hint of red making it perfect for burned areas. I thinned it down with a bit of water.

I brush painted the exhausts with this color. A few layers were needed to obtain a good coverage.

Day 5 - Earth Tones
This might be one of the most involved steps on an armor subject. Of course, only if you decide to add complex weathering to your model.

British WW1 tanks are specific when it comes to mud and dust as large sections of their sides are weathered like a running gear due to the tracks running along the entire side. This applies most extremely to British Mark tanks. There are, of coure, some exceptions in WW2 armor too – amphibious LVT’s, Churchill tanks (without fenders) to name a couple.

I wanted to add moderate amounts of mud on the lower hull sides in order not to cover all of the chipping effects.

I started by adding controlled amounts of Wilder Textured Earth around the sponsons. Once again I worked on small sections at a time.

After adding small amount of textured paste I blended the edges with a bit of water. Textured Earth dries quickly so working in small segments is crucial in order to get a natural looking effect.
Read Complete Chapter 5
Day 6 - Tracks
Tracks play a very important role in each armored model. This importance is doubled if we’re painting a subject with exposed track runs such as this one. The good thing is the upcoming steps are very much the same as on any other tank
I started by airbrushing the track runs with dark grey acrylic paint that represents metal surface. Much of this won’t be visible, so a simple grey uniform coat will do the work just fine.

WW1 tanks had their large flat track links polished to an extreme shine. I’ve read somewhere that the British placed camouflage netting over their tanks in order to conceal this shine from the sight of enemy aircraft pilots. To replicate this effect I dry brushed a silver lacquer paint over the entire track. This is again just a base coat, I’ll create the final shine later
Read Complete Chapter 6

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