October 25, 2016

Trench Runner Pat Hillard Attacks the Plastic Soldier Company (PSC) Late War British Armoured Division, Army Box - Part 3 Painting

Part 3: Painting the Vehicles
For painting I decided to use my airbrush for the primer coat and the base coat. I used "tack" to mount each hull section to a plastic container (the small ones are condiment containers from a restaurant and the larger ones are the icing containers from cinnamon rolls). I labeled each tank and turret so that they went back to their appropriate partner.


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Another view of the models ready to start the painting process

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My Badger 105 Patriot airbrush, a universal airbrush cleaning pot, Vallejo Surface Primer, 70.802 Black, Vallejo Model Air 71.017 Russian Green, Vallejo 71.061 Airbrush Thinner and Vallejo 71.099 Airbrush Cleaner. I use a Campbell Hausfeld, 110 Max PSI, 110 volt air compressor. I usually spray at 5 to 8 PSI. I used several drops of thinner per cup of primer to make sure I have a good flow and one or two in the Model Air paint (it helps improve flow). I use Windex to clean between colors and the airbrush cleaner when I am finished spraying.

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The models primed black. One even coat is enough to give you a very nice finish.

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Another view of the primed models.

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The models with their base coat of Vallejo Model Air 71.017 Russian Green

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It is very hard to see the subtle changes in the color of the next three pictures. In this one all of the vehicles received a heavy coat of Citadel Shade - Nulin Oil. This darkened the base coat slightly and put shadows in all recesses of the models. I apply it straight from the bottle without any thinning. Use a damp brush to prevent pooling of the shade in any flat areas. You can use any brown/black shade that you prefer. I usually use Citadel Shad - Agrax Earthshade on my German vehicles but wanted to try the Nulin Oil on these. I was very happy with the results.

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A heavy dry brush of Vallejo Model Color 70.924 Russian Uniform WWII was applied. I used an Army Painter Hobby Dry brush. I purchased it for this project to try. I was very happy with the results. The brush head is about 3/8" wide, perfect for doing vehicles of this size. If you look closely you can see the dark shadows in the recesses from the shade layer. I did not worry about being neat, I dry brushed the entire model at this point including tracks

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This image shows the next step. A highlight dry brushing with a 2:1 mixture of Vallejo Model Color 70.924 Russian Uniform WWII and Vallejo Model Color 70.884 Stone Grey. I made sure to hit any of the heavy wear areas with this and tried to keep it off of any flat panels. Corners, seams, grills, hatches, weld lines: anything that would be raised up and show more wear and tear than the rest of the vehicle. Use your eye and apply as much or as little as you like.

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Here is a closer view of a turret with the shade and two drybrush treatments. You can an see how the edges of the hatch, gun mantel and other raised plates have a worn look. Once again if you want more or less highlights you can adjust accordingly. I was very happy with the final results. This was the first time I used this process. It was easy to do and gave very good results in a short amount of time.

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View of the finished vehicles waiting for the detail and decal phase

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A close up of the command vehicle. At this point I was ready to paint all of the stowage on the vehicles. Some people may skip this step so I am not going into much detail. I painted using the following colors:
Wood - Vallejo Model Color 70.872 Chocolate Brown
Wood Highlight - Vallejo Model Color 70.984 Flat Brown
Rubber Tracks and Wheels - Flames of War 862 Black Grey (to me this looks more like rubber than black)
Tools/Mg's - Reaper Master Series Paint - 09052 Shadowed SteelRubber Tracks and Wheels - Flames of War 862 Black Grey (to me this looks more like rubber than black)Tools/Mg's - Reaper Master Series Paint - 09052 Shadowed SteelRubber Tracks and Wheels - Flames of War 862 Black Grey (to me this looks more like rubber than black)Tools/Mg's - Reaper Master Series Paint - 09052 Shadowed SteelPacks/Tarps - Vallejo Model Color 70.821 German Camo Beige WWII, 70.884 Stone Grey.
Once finished I washed all of the accessories with Citadel Agrax Earth Shade. I made sure not to get it on any of the previously finished hull.

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A close up of one of the half tracks. This really shows the highlights of the final drybrush coat. It brings all of the small details out of the background.

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For this project I used the Plastic Soldier DEC15013 Guards Armoured Division decal pack.

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The set comes with four decal sheets. For my HQ and 2 platoons I went with the 2nd Armoured Battalion Grenadier Guards (red 51 on the vehicles). There was not enough decals to do the third platoon so I choose B Squadron of the 1st Armoured Battalion Coldstream Guards. For the Motor Platoon they are the 1st Motor Battalion Grenadier Guards. All were sections of the Guards Armoured Division. The Guards shield and the red numerical decals go on front and back of the vehicle. The yellow bridge weight marker goes on the front and the triangle/square/circles are turret markings for the squadrons. You will see the decals in the finished images. I used Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510 to protect the area of the decals. Once dried I used Testors Model Master Decal Setting Solution. If you follow the directions you have excellent results on and surface

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Chipping was added by using a small piece of sponge, approximately 1/4'" x 1/4" with the face torn unevenly. I used Vallejo 70836 London Grey for the chipping. I dipped the end of the sponge in the paint, patted it on the paper until it was almost dry then dabbed it on the vehicle where I wanted chips to appear. You can do this as heavily as you like. I tried to do a variety on each vehicle to represent newer replacement vehicles and ones that have been in service longer.

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I used Wilder TE03 Dark Brown Textured Earth for weathering. I usually used powders but wanted to try the premixed product. It is a paste like consistency and you apply it with a brush to areas that you with to have weathering. Depending on the amount of pigment you apply you will have a smooth or textured finish when it dries. I applied a light coat to represent dust and heavier in certain areas to show mud build up. I am very pleased with the final results and it looks great at this scale. It is much quicker that using pigment powder and fixative and I believe it will last longer on the vehicle when handled for game play.

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For a metallic finish on the tracks I used a #2 graphite pencil. I do not like metallic paint on this scale so i use the pencil to highlight tools, mg's and tracks. The vehicle on the left has had the track ends treated, the one on the right has not. It is very subtle but looks very good at this and also 28mm scale. This picture also gives a nice view of the dried weathering effects and chip variation on two different vehicles. Once the metallic highlight was completed all of the vehicles received a finish coat of Testors Spray Lacquer. It provides a very durable finish that protects your models from handling.


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In Part 4 I tackle the Figures

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